Table of Contents
1. The Clothing Industry in Canada, Mexico and the United States
1.1 Employment in the Industry and Demand for its Product
Employment
Changes in Consumer Demand and the Retail Sector
1.2 The NAFTA Countries and the International Clothing Trade
NAFTA and Regulation of the Cothing Trade
Bilateral Agreements Preceding NAFTA
The World Trade Organization's Agreement on Textiles and Clothing
1.3 International Clothing Trade
The Increasing Number of Countries Exporting Garments
Canada's International Clothing Trade
U.S. International Clothing Trade
Mexico's International Clothing Trade
2. Labour Standards and the Garment Industry
2.1 Labour Standards in a Labor-Intensive Industry
Importance of Labor Standards for a Disadvantaged Workforce
Minimum Wages in the Garment Industry
Normal Working Hours and Overtime Pay in the Garment Industry
Hours Worked in the Clothing Industry
Vacations, Statutory Holidays and Other Leave
Occupational Health and Safety
2.2 The Challenges of Enforcing Labor Standards
Size of Firms
Structure of the Industry
3. The Campaign against Illegal Sweatshops in the United States
3.1 An Industry-Based Strategy
Limitations of the Traditional Method
Securing the Participation of the Major Industry Players
3.2 Implementing the No Sweat Strategy
The "Hot Goods" Provision of the Fair Labor Standards Act
Public Access to Information about FLSA Violations
Contracts to Comply with Labor Standards
Support Provided by Various Organizations
Joint Action by Various Organizations
3.3 Initial Results of the No Sweat Campaign
Support from Business Organizations
The Apparel Industry Partnership and the Fair Labor Association
Growing Use of Compliance Contracts and Monitoring
Organizations
Results of Field Surveys
Openness to the World
4. The Higher End of the Scale of Workplace Practices
4.1 A Starting Point Superior to the Minimum Legal Standards
A Base Wage above the Legal Minimum
Initial Training: Getting Workers Up to Speed Quickly
Workplaces that Motivate Workers to Stay
4.2 Ongoing Training to Upgrade Skills
4.3 Productivity Bonuses
4.4 Other Examples of "Advanced" Practices
4.5 Promoting Compliance with Labor Standards by Subcontractors
4.6 Concluding Comments: The Way of the Future?
5. Innovations in the Organization of Work
5.1 The Modular System and ISO Quality Standards
The "Premium" Placed on the Geographic Proximity of Producers
A Medium-Sized Company in Quebec
A Company in California.
5.2 ISO 9000 Quality Standards in Three Clothing Firms
A Small Quebec Business
A Medium-Sized Company in New Brunswick
A Large Plant in Chihuahua
5.3 Advanced Practices and Collective Agreements
The Setting of Standard Times and Piece Rates
Wage Stability during Periods of Adjustment to New Tasks
Dialogue on Certain Aspects of Company Management
Dispute Resolution Procedures
6. Public and Private Sector Partnerships in the Clothing Industry
6.1 Regional Concentrations of the Industry
6.2 La Ciudad de la Confeccion ("Clothing City," State Of Morelos)
6.3 The Manitoba Fashion Institute
6.4 The Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC, New York City)
6.5 Garment 2000: A Focal Point for the Industry in the San Francisco Area
6.6 Quebec's Legislation Promoting Workforce Training Conclusion