"Standard" and "Advanced" Practices in the North American Garment Industry
INTRODUCTION
1. The Clothing Industry
in Canada, Mexico and the United States
1.1 Employment in the Industry and
Demand for its Product
Employment
Changes in Consumer Demand and the
Retail Sector
1.2 The NAFTA Countries and the International
Clothing Trade
NAFTA and Regulation of the Cothing
Trade
Bilateral Agreements Preceding NAFTA
The World Trade Organization's Agreement
on Textiles and Clothing
1.3 International Clothing Trade
The Increasing Number of Countries
Exporting Garments
Canada's International Clothing Trade
U.S. International Clothing Trade
Mexico's International Clothing Trade
2. Labour Standards and the Garment
Industry
2.1 Labour Standards in a Labor-Intensive
Industry
Importance of Labor Standards for
a Disadvantaged Workforce
Minimum Wages in the Garment Industry
Normal Working Hours and Overtime
Pay in the Garment Industry
Hours Worked in the Clothing Industry
Vacations, Statutory Holidays and
Other Leave
Occupational Health and Safety
2.2 The Challenges of Enforcing Labor
Standards
Size of Firms
Structure of the Industry
3. The Campaign against Illegal Sweatshops
in the United States
3.1 An Industry-Based Strategy
Limitations of the Traditional Method
Securing the Participation of the
Major Industry Players
3.2 Implementing the No Sweat Strategy
The "Hot Goods" Provision
of the Fair Labor Standards Act
Public Access to Information about
FLSA Violations
Contracts to Comply with Labor Standards
Support Provided by Various Organizations
Joint Action by Various Organizations
3.3 Initial Results of the No Sweat
Campaign
Support from Business Organizations
The Apparel Industry Partnership and
the Fair Labor Association
Growing Use of Compliance Contracts
and Monitoring
Organizations
Results of Field Surveys
Openness to the World
4. The Higher End of the Scale of
Workplace Practices
4.1 A Starting Point Superior to the
Minimum Legal Standards
A Base Wage above the Legal Minimum
Initial Training: Getting Workers
Up to Speed Quickly
Workplaces that Motivate Workers to
Stay
4.2 Ongoing Training to Upgrade Skills
4.3 Productivity Bonuses
4.4 Other Examples of "Advanced"
Practices
4.5 Promoting Compliance with Labor
Standards by Subcontractors
4.6 Concluding Comments: The Way of
the Future?
5. Innovations in the Organization
of Work
5.1 The Modular System and ISO Quality
Standards
The "Premium" Placed on
the Geographic Proximity of Producers
A Medium-Sized Company in Quebec
A Company in California.
5.2 ISO 9000 Quality Standards in
Three Clothing Firms
A Small Quebec Business
A Medium-Sized Company in New Brunswick
A Large Plant in Chihuahua
5.3 Advanced Practices and Collective
Agreements
The Setting of Standard Times and
Piece Rates
Wage Stability during Periods of Adjustment
to New Tasks
Dialogue on Certain Aspects of Company
Management
Dispute Resolution Procedures
6. Public and Private Sector Partnerships
in the Clothing Industry
6.1 Regional Concentrations of the
Industry
6.2 La Ciudad de la Confeccion ("Clothing
City," State Of Morelos)
6.3 The Manitoba Fashion Institute
6.4 The Garment Industry Development
Corporation (GIDC, New York City)
6.5 Garment 2000: A Focal Point for
the Industry in the San Francisco
Area
6.6 Quebec's Legislation Promoting
Workforce Training Conclusion
CONCLUSION
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